{"id":22009,"date":"2012-04-11T17:14:56","date_gmt":"2012-04-11T21:14:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.janicefergusonsews.com\/blog\/?p=22009"},"modified":"2020-06-03T22:22:38","modified_gmt":"2020-06-04T02:22:38","slug":"shadow-smocking-how-to","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.janicefergusonsews.com\/blog\/2012\/04\/11\/shadow-smocking-how-to\/","title":{"rendered":"Shadow Smocking How-to"},"content":{"rendered":"

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My granddaughter’s shadow smocked Easter dress was inspired by Kay Guiles’ article in Sew Beautiful,<\/em> Easter, 1998.\u00c2\u00a0 In fact, the dress is nearly identical to one of the sample garments shown in that article.\u00c2\u00a0 I take no credit whatsoever for the design or technique.<\/p>\n

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\"SB<\/a><\/p>\n

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The only changes made to Laurel’s dress are the addition of lace insertion in the skirt and the substitution of a different embroidery design that included both silk ribbon and DMC floss.<\/p>\n

Shadow smocking is a very unique technique and not at all difficult.\u00c2\u00a0 But I learned a lot that I would like to share with anyone considering such a project.<\/p>\n

First let me summarize the technique.\u00c2\u00a0 Think of it as shadow applique’ but smocked. Just like shadow applique’, the outer fabric (white on this dress) must be sheer enough for the applique’d fabric (aqua)\u00c2\u00a0 to shadow through.\u00c2\u00a0 Additionally, the aqua shadow fabric must be sheer enough that when applied to the white outer fabric, both fabrics can be pleated together.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 For example, I would not try white batiste and aqua broadcloth. This dress is made of white Nelona Swiss batiste with Finella or “Fairy” Swiss batiste blue fabric for the shadow.<\/p>\n

Now for the particulars and my tips.<\/p>\n

1. SELECTING THE PATTERN:\u00c2\u00a0 For smaller sizes, any yoke pattern will do.\u00c2\u00a0 But if you want the smocking to come below the armscye, select a pattern that has a longer bodice.\u00c2\u00a0 I used one of my favorite big girl patterns, Ginger Snaps<\/em>\u00c2\u00a0 Lace Dress. The slightly raised waistline is just right for older girls, like my almost 8 year old granddaughter.\u00c2\u00a0 A very versatile pattern, it also has several variations, includes shadow work designs and more.<\/p>\n

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\"lace-dress-patt\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Ever popular Children’s Corner Margaret would work just as well.<\/p>\n

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Children’s Corner Margaret<\/p><\/div>\n

But The Lace Dress was already on my cutting table.\u00c2\u00a0 I had just used it for Laurel’s baptismal\u00c2\u00a0 dress<\/a>.<\/p>\n

2.\u00c2\u00a0 CREATING THE SCALLOP TEMPLATE:\u00c2\u00a0 Two scallop templates are included in the Sew Beautiful<\/em> article, one which creates\u00c2\u00a0 the design shown and the other which is just a simple, soft, wide curve.\u00c2\u00a0 If you have no access to that issue, you could draw your own, but keep in mind that the pleats will condense the horizontal shape.\u00c2\u00a0 I suggest you “audition” a scallop shape by tracing it with heavy line made by a blue washaway marker on a piece of scrap fabric.\u00c2\u00a0 Pleat that up, study the shape of the blue line, and redraw until you are satisfied with the shape.\u00c2\u00a0 Draw a second line parallel to and 1″ above the scallop.\u00c2\u00a0 This is for the feather stitch which comes later.\u00c2\u00a0 Note that this technique would also work with a straight across yoke minus the scallop, but the curve is very pleasing.<\/p>\n

3.\u00c2\u00a0 MEASURING THE FABRICS:\u00c2\u00a0 A full 45″ width was used for each of the two fabrics.<\/p>\n