Another class project for Sewing at the Beach is finished along with the kits and handouts. This Swiss organdy zig zag bonnet is a summer version of the Swiss flannel bonnet featured in an earlier post. Appearing in Creative Needle magazine many years ago, the 1920′s pattern has always intrigued me. That one was made of a single layer of Swiss batiste.
Working with the organdy was such a pleasure. It’s such an elegant fabric, though I just don’t know what could possibly have been done to cotton to make it remain stiff even after laundering. I’ll have to research that.
Having modified the pattern to include a lining, I was pleased to see the delicate lawn print peeking through the organdy. It is much more visible than it is through the Swiss flannel. Additionally, the organdy required no starch before hemstitching. This is a bonus in a classroom situation.
Basically, the pattern consists of a single piece of batiste 15″ X 9″ with deep zig zags along the front and back. This measurement allows a little excess around the edges for hemstitching.
I was not surprised at how difficult it was to trace the pattern onto the organdy. It would have taken too much time in class, so I used a technique that has worked on other projects that require tracing.
First, I taped the paper pattern to the cutting board. Then, a sheet of quilting template plastic was placed over that and also taped to the cutting board. Next, several lengths of double sided tape (my absolute favorite, must-have non-sewing notion) were placed around the perimeter of the pattern and through the center. Finally, the organdy was pressed against the tape and smoothed flat.
Not only does this prevent shifting of shifty fabric, but it also prevents the possibility of transferring some of the ink from the pattern onto the fabric when the marking pen traces over it. And it is so much more accurate than tracing over unruly fabric.
If you would like this wide V floral machine embroidery design, post your request as a comment below.
The machine embroidery within the front points is from Fil Tire’ and Fancywork Combinations collection. Lining is joined to the organdy with spray adhesive up to the brim fold line.
Machine made entredeux outlines the perimeter and slightly gathered English lace edging is butted up to it. Lace edging is joined all around.
The embroidered points are folded back to serve as a brim and the back zig zags are tacked together. Ribbons can be attached quite simply at the sides. Machine embroidered lace rosettes to cover the ribbon stitching takes a little more time but I was pleased with the results.
Five inches of 3/4″ edging was machine zig zagged together. By pulling the gathering thread from both ends, I had more than 2″ of sturdy header thread to knot off, holding the rosette’s gathers. Still, there is a small hole in the center.
Water soluble stabilizer was hooped in my smallest embroidery frame. With spray adhesive, a scrap of white lace was placed against the rosette, over the hole. Then, with another application of spray adhesive, the lace rosette was placed on the stabilizer. The carefully selected design was sized to reach beyond the little hole in the center of the rosette.
I love baby bonnets. What is your favorite bonnet pattern?
Oh, how pretty! I made that bonnet from that CN magazine as a shower gift years ago! I did not line it, though, and my machine made entredeux did not look as lovely as yours. I did the embroidery by hand and put silk ribbon rosettes on the sides. It was a hit at the shower but I never did see a photo of the baby in the bonnet. I LOVE your lace rosettes! I adore baby bonnets and have lots of patterns that I like. Smocked bonnets are a favorite and so are some of the bonnets in Wendy Schoen’s patterns. (They look like some from my vintage pattern collection.) A scalloped brim bonnet from a more recent Simplicity pattern has been a big hit and frames baby’s face nicely. I really like it because it has an ‘old fashioned’ look and that is right ‘up my alley’! Thank you for sharing this lovely bonnet and bringing back nice memories.
Oh, Karen, I’m so glad to hear that you loved that zig zag bonnet in CN enough to make it. I truly expected that it would become a rage after that article came out with the pattern included! But I’ve known no one who has made it other than the two of us. I think the beauty of a stitched item is greatly enhanced with hand embroidery. Kudos to you! Apparently, our tastes are pretty similar! But what a shame that you never saw your creation on that baby. The next time I give a baby gift that I’ve made, I’m going to include in the gift card my strongly worded request for a picture. I, too, love Wendy Schoen’s bonnets but the only one I’ve made up is the moppet hat that goes with the Ducky Daisy diaper set in her baby book. But if we get a granddaughter next time ’round (ETA 3/12!!!) I’ll be asking you for recommendations.
Janice, this is lovely. I have on my cutting table some lovely white flannel and an old Little Vogue pattern, #1040. I do not know if you are familiar with this one as I purchased it in 1983. However, it features a very distinctive bodice which has a square of fabric set on point and the skirt of the little gown gathered and sewn to the bottom edges. The sleeves are attached doleman style to the upper edges. I am planning to use the little heart design you sent a couple of weeks ago in the center of the square. Now you bring me the bonnet to match this gown! The points of this lovely bonnet will coordinate perfectly with the inset of the gown. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Please do send me the embroidery file for the wide v and stand by……. there will be a third person making this little beauty.
Hurrah! Don’t you just love it when things come together like this? What a lovely little outfit this will be. Please send photos! (Design sent.)
Janice – I have made this bonnet more than one time – it’s one of my favorites!!! I am going to have to see if I can find a picture of it. I know I gave one to my daughter for my granddaughter to wear when she was tiny. I think I have another one ready for embroidery. I made mine out of Swiss and added a seam at the fold so that the “brim” was organdy. Loved, loved, loved it!!!
I would love to try the little bonnet too, do you know which Issue No: it was in, I may have it among my back issues. So sad when CN was discontinued it was one of my favourites. I would like to recieve the little embroidery too, thanks so much. It is all just too sweet.
Lizanne, I’m sorry that I was not very clear in that bonnet post. I cannot send you the bonnet pattern because it is not mine to do so. It was in Creative Needle Jan. 1998, so I hope you have that issue. It broke my heart when CN folded. It was an invaluable resource, but the back issues are as useful and inspirational as they were when they were new. I will e-mail the wideV ME design and the fil tire’ oval. I hope you enjoy using them.
izanne,
Kathy, I love the idea of using a different fabric for the brim, using entredeux for the break. My Brother sewing machines do fabulous hemstitching, so I pinstitched the lace in place. But after stitching the points on the brim, I flipped the fabric so the right side of the pin stitch presented all around. The ribbon ties covered any imperfections where the stitching joined up. I’d love to see pictures of your bonnets. I do love this pattern.
Love the pin stitching! Could you please share the machine settings that you used? Thanks.
Shirley and Kathy, I gave incorrect information about the hemstitching on the zig zag bonnet. The lace was not pinstitched in place. Instead, wing needle entredeux was stitched around the perimeter, excess fabric cut away, and then slightly gathered lace was butted to the entredeux and then zig zagged to the entredeux. I will post the entredeux settings as well as my favorite pinstitch setting tomorrow. I just got home from spending 14 hours setting up, judging and attending events at Odyssey of the Mind. I am too tired to even walk into the sewing room. Whine….whine…whine…