Category Archives: heirloom sewing

Easter Dress 2010~More Progress

skirt fancyband

Laurel’s heirloom sewn Easter yoke dress is coming along.  She and her brother. Robert, spent  last night with us and what with all the activity, baths and preparations for today’s homeschool lessons, not much got done on the dress until this evening. 

unfinished butterfly sleeve

The butterfly sleeves are well underway.  I finished the skirt fancyband and plan to use a portion of that for the lace ruffle below the beading.  But time ran out before I could get the sleeves finished.  The skirts are 45″ front and back, so it takes 2 1/2 yds. of each piece of the 5 pieces of lace in the fancyband.  It takes a good while to starch and iron 13 yards of lace, not to mention the time to stitch them together.  Continue reading

Progress~2010 Easter Dress Yoke

It seems nearly impossible to get a nice flat scan of anything dimensional. This yoke not all rippley.

Progress is slow on this dress and I am really getting worried about finishing the grandchildren’s outfits before Easter weekend.  I have made every mistake possible and spent more time picking out stitches than putting them in. 

This ultra sheer batiste absolutely requires stabilizer behind all hemstitching.  And yet if I remember to put the stabilizer in place, I have forgotten to insert the wing or #120 needle.

In my humble opinion, the inclusion of hemstitching wherever possible always elevates the heirloom status of a garment.  On a whim, I decided to use yellow Madeira Cotona for the entredeux at the shoulders and pinstitch on either side of the insertion.    I hope I don’t regret it when the garment is all assembled.  Will it disappear or conflict with the yellow slip?  Continue reading

Easter Slip 2010

The underdress/slip for Laurel’s Easter dress is finished,  except  for sewing on the buttons.  After cutting out a size 6 and realizing that it was too large, I altered it considerably.  But it still looks huge to me. It may require a tuck under the arm at the side seam.

I decided against using the fagoted lace edging on the slip.  The sleeves will be butterfly style, open down the center with lace on either edge.  With that peekabook feature, the slip might make the sleeve look cluttered. So I’ve used a simple scalloped lace edging. Continue reading

Laurel’s Easter Dress ’10–Gathering Supplies

“To become a grandparent is to enjoy one of the few pleasures in life for which the consequences have already been paid. “  Robert Brault

And so it is with the pre-paid pleasure of sewing these Easter garments.  I am determined to use the fabrics, patterns and trims that I already have and not buy more.  All the materials for Laurel’s Easter dress have been extracted from the armoire, dresser drawers and lace boxes,  ready to be cut and sewn.

I am so excited about sewing  this garment. In Martha Pullen’s 1985 book, French Hand Sewing by Machine, the Second Book, there is a photo of a white basic yoke dress with a blue slip showing through. It has intrigued me from the moment I saw it.

Ever since then, I have wanted to make such a dress. I don’t know why I never did, but at last it has made its way to the top of my To Do list.  A few items down on that same running list is a notation to make a green slip/sundress after Easter.

Because I’m trying to coordinate the three grandchildren’s outfits, yellow ducks will be the tie that binds them.  Alastair’s middle name is Drake, so the duck theme was selected especially for him. The handloom shown above and in the previous post showing Alastair’s bubble seems to dictate that white or yellow be used for the body of the garments and all three children look very nice in yellow.   So Laurel’s underdress/slip will be yellow Imperial broadcloth. I might rather have used batiste, but I had plenty of broadcloth and no batiste on hand. I’m justifying this compromise by recognizing that Laurel is almost 6 and a broadcloth “slip” could also pass as a sundress. I’m also trying very hard to use fabric that I already have.

The Swiss batiste is the very sheerest, known by the names of Swiss muslin and Swiss finella. I want to use this so the pale yellow slip will shadow through as much as possible.

The other components are Swiss fagoting used for beading, a fancy entredeux to dress up the fagoting on the sleeves, yellow ribbon, the beautiful fagoted lace galoon and French “footing” lace, which is just a simple lace ground, without a pattern.  I chose the footing because I don’t want a decorative insertion to compete with the fagoted lace.

Sarah Howard Stone’s Basic Yoke Dress pattern will be used. This is a fabulous pattern and an incredible bargain, priced at $10-11. The pattern includes the slip and several lovely, classic embroidered and heirloom sewn collars. It is wonderful for smocked yoke dresses.

 When I began sewing for my daughter, I bought this pattern in each size and have never regretted it.  It was so reassuring to know that when she outgrew one size, the next would fit just fine.  When switching from one pattern to another, you can never be sure how comparable their sizes are.

The slip is well underway.  The yoke is lined, using a technique that I’ve always liked.  By placing the pattern piece for the back seam line on a fold, you create a nicely folded back edge, without the bulk of a seam.  Cut two backs in this manner and cut two front yokes as per the pattern.  By laying out these four pieces as shown in the diagram, seaming the shoulders and then creasing on the back fold lines, you have a fully lined, seam enclosed bodice.

It’s a good thing I started with the slip.  While Laurel was here with her family, I tried the slip bodice on her.  She is wearing a size 6 now in all ready-to-wear, so that’s what I cut out.  It is very big on her.  Fortunately, I can cut the shoulder deeper and take up the added armscye circumference in the underarm side seam.  But I will use the size 5 pattern for her dress.  I’m happy to be making pattern adjustments on broadcloth that ultra-sheer Swiss batiste.

Back to the sewing room……..Is anyone else sewing for Easter?  Inquiring minds want to know!

Easter Bubble Done, almost

A bubble

 

Alastair’s Easter outfit is almost done. As soon as I get his thigh measurement, I can put the elastic in the legs and it will be ready to wear.

 

flowering plum

wild flowering plum tree

 

It was a gorgeous spring day in central Florida and I so enjoyed being outside to take these photos.  My wild flowering plum tree is in full bloom and was full of busily buzzing bees.  The azaleas are all showing off in orchid and pink, the dogwood tree is ready to burst open its buds and the orange blossoms will scent the air in a few days.  Spring in Florida is a glorious time.

Aside from taking these few pictures,  planting some impatiens and cooking dinner, I have done nothing but sew. After dinner, I stitched the buttonholes, sewed on the buttons and gathered up my materials for Laurel’s dress.   It has been a sewing extravaganza for me.  And, as always, I learned a few things. Continue reading

Easter Bubble–Getting it all Together

It’s very late to be starting three Easter outfits for my grandchildren. Life so often gets in the way of sewing. Just this week, my 4 year old grandson Robert joined our little homeschool student body.   What with assessing his academic level, finding appropriate materials and rearranging our daily schedule, I am way behind.  In addition to the joyous message of Easter, it is also the  holiday for which sewing mothers and grandmothers daydream all year.

When was the last time you saw a McCall's pattern for $2.50?

Because both of our children and their families will be here at our home for Easter, I want to coordinate the grandchildren’s outfits. I am beginning with Alastair, 12 months.

Continue reading

Walter Mitty Reports

 

So often, bits and pieces are all that remains of what once was a spectacular piece of needlework. It’s likely that I have hoarding tendencies, because the idea of throwing away the beautiful stitches of an unknown and long since departed kindred spirit is abhorrent to me. And I have boxes of these bits and pieces to prove it.

No doubt one or two of these are lace pieces from Queen Elizabeth's play dresses.

So often, bits and pieces are all that remains of what once was a spectacular piece of needlework. It’s likely that I have hoarding tendencies, because the idea of throwing away the beautiful stitches of an unknown and long since departed kindred spirit is abhorrent to me. And I have boxes of these bits and pieces to prove it.

Crazy patch is my preferred technique for these items.   Pillows seem particularly suitable as they are laundered infrequently, putting the aged beauties at less risk of damage. This pillow is made of some of the remnants in my stash.  Each tells a silent story, the tale of its origin which I plot out as I stitch the pieces together. Continue reading

Lace Tape Wedding Ring Dress

After the Everything-Wrong Birthday Suit post, writing about this dress is very soothing. It does not give me an absolute sigh of satisfaction, but I am pretty pleased with it.

There is a lot to love about the dress: Chery Williams Wedding Ring Dress pattern, Capitol Imports champagne Swiss batiste, champagne Swiss beading, peach lace tape, miles of hemstitching, both pinstitch and entredeux, and a nylon French lace which requires almost no ironing. There will be more about the lace later. Continue reading

Lace Tape Christening Gown

The Goal

LTgownbanister

When I began this project I had a 3-fold goal.  It was to make a gender neutral christening gown

  • using less than 200 yds. of lace
  • costing less than major household appliance and
  • looking more like an heirloom than a Halloween costume.

The purist in me demanded that all materials be heirloom quality and that the design be suitable for the solemn and yet joyful occasion for which it was intended. Upon completion, I felt that my goals had been met.

zLTChristeninggownyoke

The Materials

The materials were simple and few: ultra sheer Swiss batiste, also known as finella or Swiss muslin, 5 yds. lace tape, 1 ¼ yds. entredeux, 2 1/4 yds. 1/2″ tatting, 1 yd. baby tatting. With a 100 wing needle, 1.8/70 twin needle, 80 wt. cotton heirloom thread and 50 wt. silk thread, all supplies were assembled and ready to go. Continue reading

LaceTape Quilted pillow

A pillow is a great project for learning new techniques.  The use and actual quilting of heirloom lace combine two of my favorite sewing genres.   Adding free motion quilting and the use of lace tape to the project makes it an instructive and pretty little ornament.

Beginning with rice Imperial batiste, two rectangles were cut 14″  x 18″, two inches  larger than the intended finished pillow size of 12″ x 16″.  A piece of lightweight batting was cut to the same measurement.  The bow was traced onto one of the batiste rectangles using a fine tipped blue water soluble marker.  The quilt “sandwich” was hand basted together, with the traced bow on  top, then batting and finally the second batiste rectangle.

Continue reading