Tutorial: Consumer-made Entredeux

Looking back over 35 years of teaching needlework classes (WOW!  That’s a lonnnng time!), from quilting to smocking, heirloom to machine embroidery and more, there is one question that is asked again and again.   “What is the difference between pinstitch and entredeux stitch?”  Considering all those years and all those classes, that amounts to a lot of curiosity about hemstitching.

At a cursory glance, the two stitches look very much alike–rows of decorative holes.  But they are very different.

 

lacetapedolldresskirt

 

This photo shows a doll skirt with pinstitch outlining the U shapes beside and above the yellow lace tape machine made entredeux below below  the curves of yellow.  The lace tape was stitched in place on the wrong side of the fabric (a machine applique’ technique) and the pinstitch covered the tiny, ho-hum straight stitches which held the lace tape in place.

 

pinstitchdiagrams

pinstitch, actual appearance on left and stitch diagram on right

Below the shadowed, scalloped lace tape was the straight edge of the skirt.  Entredeux was worked along the scallops with the left reaches of the stitch pattern catching the edge of the tape.  The holes are positioned beside the tape and the opposite reach goes into the fabric below the scallops.

Next, the excess fabric below the lace tape and entredeux was cut away.  This left a secure, clean edge against which the yellow lace was butted and then joined with a zig zag.

You cannot cut against pinstitch without it falling apart.  Entredeux, on the other hand, offers finished edges on both sides.

 

entredeuxdiagrams

entredeux stitch, actual appearance on left and stitch diagram on right

Some time ago, a two part tutorial on pinstitch was posted on this blog, followed by requests for a similar post on entredeux.  So here it is~~~~~

To my knowledge, entredeux, also known as Venetian hem stitch,  is always made by machine, either commercially or by home sewing machines.  Some discussion about commercial entredeux follows, to serve as a foundation for the subsequent and main discussion about consumer/homemade entredeux.

COMMERCIALLY MADE ENTREDEUX:  In case you are new to heirloom sewing and goods, entredeux is a ladder like trim whose name in French means “between {entre} two {deux}.  Except for some really raggedy domestic-made entredeux, it is made in Switzerland.   Most commonly used between two pieces of lace, lace and fabric or fabric and fabric, it is uncommonly used in various other creative ways.  Entredeux is available in white, ecru, ivory, black, pink and blue,  is sold by the yard and looks like this:

 

4-5-entredeux lg

 

 

There are many variations on this basic style, from double or triple rows of holes to alternating large and small holes, and more.  NOTE:  All entredeux photos are from Farmhouse Fabrics, my all-time favorite mail order source for sewing supplies.  Entredeux prices range from $1.90 – $4.75 per yard.

 

5-21-swiss triple ent lg

 

8-31-48-e-211 lg

 

They all come with fabric on either side of the “railroad tracks for ants” and that fabric is there for ease in handling and for attachment techniques.  Almost always, the fabric is cut away and only the holes remain.  They add not only decorative interest between two rows of lace but also strength between fabric and lace at a neckline or between fabric and fabric in the armscye or shoulder seam.  In my humble opinion, consumer made entredeux is rarely strong enough or suitable for these two uses.

 

z1stbirthdaytucksBrite

commercial entredeux at neckline and armscye, pinstitch over tucks

CONSUMER MADE ENTREDEUX:  This discussion/tutorial deals only with making entredeux on home sewing machines which have a stitch for this.

For those readers without this specific stitch, Carol Ahles gives instructions for creating rather credible entredeux using other stitches on a number of machines.

Front Cover

Her book, Fine Machine Sewing is an encyclopedia of techniques with clear, detailed directions and photos.  I highly recommend it.

So let’s assume that you have an entredeux stitch on your machine and you want to make entredeux.  To be successful, you will need some very specific materials:

  • fabric—natural fiber such as cotton, linen, or wool
  • needle— either wing or sharp/universal
  • d

 

  • machine stitch–select basic Venetian hemstitch for entredeux (see diagram above).  After some practice, you might enjoy trying out some of the other hemstitches available on your machine.
  • presser foot–open toe is best for visibility.  But if there is any puckering, a metal foot holds the fabric more firmly and might give better results.
  • very fine thread, preferably 1) Madeira Cotona 80/2, or 2) Mettler 60/2 (kelly green band atop spool), or as a last resort 3) DMC 50/2 machine embroidery thread
  • spray starch
  • optional: stabilizer

fabric selection–The first consideration is fabric.  I have made entredeux on various weights of 100% cotton batiste, cotton organdy, linen and wool.

 

zigzagrosette

Entredeux stitch was worked on this zig zag bonnet through a single layer of organdy around brim below the embroidery. It was also stitched through the double layer of organdy and lawn print lining around the sides and back of this bonnet .

 

Multiple tries on blends have rarely rendered anything but frustration, disappointment and ruined fabric.

Occasionally but rarely, I was satisfied with entredeux made on the crosswise grain of a polyblend fabric, but it puckered horribly on the straight of grain.  It just wasn’t worth the effort.  Just like the impossibility of making a silk purse from a sow’s ear,  you can’t get nice entredeux on 99% of all fabric blends.

To prepare the fabric, it is best to pre-wash and then press between multiple applications of spray starch.  Crisp, stiff fabric works best.

needle selection–Select a needle whose size is appropriate for your project.  The #120 wing makes a hole comparable to the size in standard commercial entredeux.  For baby or doll clothes, I prefer the #100 sharp/universal which produces holes more like the commercial baby entredeux.  Of course, always rehearse your needle and your stitch settings for best results.

entredeux stitch–On the Brother ULT series (2001, 2002D and 2003D), Duetta (4000D or 4500D) and Quattro (6000D or 6700D), the entredeux  stitch is #3-08.  It can be found in the utility stitch menu, the third tab on the right hand column, which shows a feather stitch.  It may also be on other Brother models but I am unfamiliar with them.  Babylock machines, I believe, have the same stitch in the same location.  Viking and Pfaff have nice entredeux but I am not familiar with other machines.

adjusting the stitch–It seems that men must have selected the default settings, because they are very bulky and masculine.  My Brother Quattro entredeux comes up with W. 5.0 and L. 3.5 with tension 4.0.  It looks like this:

 

Brother Quattro entredeux with #120 wing at default setting on linen

 

NOTE:  All stitched samples are worked with Madeira Cotona 80/2.  Depending on the fabric,  I am most satisfied with settings between W. 3.0 and L 3.0 (my standard linen setting) and W. 2.5 L 2.5 (for batiste).  If there is any pucking, I reduce the needle thread tension.

 

#120 wing needle W. 2.5 and L. 2.5 with tension reduced to 3.4 on Swiss flannel

 

fine thread–my preferred thread is Madeira Cotona 80/2.  This is most readily available in white and ecru, but now can be purchased in a broad array of colors at Farmhouse Fabrics.   Sally (at Farmhouse) also carries DMC 50/2 machine embroidery thread and YLI 70 wt. heirloom thread which I have used when I need a color that is not available in Madeira.

Making entredeux in colored thread can add a unique design element.  On the Liberty Goat dress, I used burgundy lace tape as a foundation for entredeux and needed matching thread.  There was no Madeira Cotona 80/2 in  that color.  So I used either DMC or Mettler, I just can’t remember, but I was satisfied with the result. I could have used a pinstitch, but I wanted the stronger color that came from more threads (due to more stitches in each repeat) with entredeux.

 

goat dress L sleeve

burgundy lace tape entredeux

 spray starch–It’s likely any spray starch will work, but I use the regular Niagra,  not professional.  Spraying the fabric lightly and allowing 15-30 seconds for the starch to penetrate the fibers works well  Press and then repeat this process until the fabric is very stiff.

stabilizer–Occasionally, with very shifty fabrics, starch does not stabilize well enough.  In those instances, 3″ wide Stitch & Ditch stabilizer can make the fabric behave.  Others use water soluble stabilizer with success.

TIPS FOR ACTUALLY  MAKING ENTREDEUX–

added 1/2″ waste–When stitching entredeux along a sleeve or hem edge, it is important to leave approximately 1/2″ excess along the edge to cut away.  Any less than that will make it difficult for the feed dogs to move the fabric as precisely as necessary.  It is also very difficult to trim away the necessary excess if it is any narrower than that.  This consideration needs to be to factored in when you decide where to stitch the entredeux.

corded entredeux–With some practice, you might want to try cording the stitch for a look more like that of commercial entredeux.

 

gimp corded entredeux, W. 3.5 L. 3.0, tension default (4.0), #120 wing needle

 

Gimp is a good choice for the cording but perle cotton is another popular option.

Guiding the gimp or perle cotton is most easily done with a cording foot, but it must offer gimp placement precisely outside the width of the wing needle.  I don’t yet have a cording foot for my Brother Quattro so I simply guided it carefully and slowly for this sample.  On earlier machines with a cording foot, I was able to guide the cording easily and stitch faster.

seamline entredeux–Making entredeux along a seamline, such as the shoulder seam,  is a nice heirloom touch. On my granddaughter’s Easter dress a few years ago, this feature was added.

 

Easter2yokescan1Brite

Consumer machine made entredeux was stitched over the shoulder seam. Note that commercial entredeux was used at the neckline for the extra strength needed for an active child’s garment. Note also that the entredeux is stitched with y

This is not difficult.  You simply sew the shoulder with a 1/2″ seam allowance, press the seam open and then stitch down the center with the needle penetrating in the “ditch” of the seamline.  After pressing, you trim away the excess fabric.

beading/gathered entredeux–Entredeux can be made over gathers on fine fabrics.  When I do this, I always use Stitch & Ditch stabilizer.  This technique made perfect beading for an American Girl doll dress I made several years ago.

 

lacetapedolldresssleeve

Wing needle entredeux is stitched over 11″ sleeve gathered to 5 1/2″. Entredeux is also stitched along the sleeve edge. The 1/2″ excess fabric was trimmed away and then the lace was butted to the entredeux and joined with a zig zag.

Entredeux is also stitched along the sleeve edge. The 1/2″ excess fabric was trimmed away and then the lace was butted to the entredeux and joined with a zig zag.

In most situations where I join lace to a raw edge like this sleeve, I would use pinstitch.  But this is very dense and very narrow.  A wing or even #100 needle would have punched visible, perhaps damaging holes, and “eaten up” some of the 3/8″ lace.  By using the entredeux stitch, a #60 needle with 80 wt. thread joined  the lace to the entredeux with a  tiny zig zag.

When the dress was completed, the entredeux was threaded with 1/8″ silk ribbon.  Can’t you just see baby daygown sleeves gathered like this?

decorative stitching with entredeux–Sometimes, the entredeux stitch is just the touch you need.  I especially like it for bird, butterfly or bee flight patterns.

 

PCMP1

 

The bees’ flight pattern  are made with a black entredeux stitch woven with metallic thread.  There is no special need for a wing needle, just one which makes a hole large enough to accommodate a threaded needle passing through. This pincushion was a class project I taught in Huntsville.

 

beematnonapcropX1BRITE

embroidered corner of a commercially made linen placemat

 

This post is already way too long, so I will close with my wishes for you all to have success and fun with this very, very useful and versatile stitch.  Let me know if you have any questions.

21 responses to “Tutorial: Consumer-made Entredeux

  1. Great tutorial! You have such great ideas….thanks for sharing.
    My goal in my spare time ( or maybe my next life) is to make yards and yards of corded entredux on Swiss batiste to have on hand…

  2. This is great information! I have made entredeux once or twice, with pretty good results. I have a question about your comment: “Occasionally but rarely, I was satisfied with entredeux made on the crosswise grain, but it puckered horribly on the straight of grain.” So what did you do? How do you cut your fabric? Also, you mention that “I have made entredeux on various weights of 100% cotton batiste, cotton organdy, linen and wool.” Which is easiest for a beginner?

    I can see this will be a valuable resource, and I am bookmarking this post. Will you have it in your tutorial section?

    BTW, the post is most definitely not too long!
    Thanks for all the great info!

  3. Cynthia, I’m sorry I was not clear when I commented about making entredeux and grainlines. What I meant to say (and have now corrected in the post) was that on synthetic fiber fabrics, polyblends, etc. I have rarely had success making entredeux and then only when made on the crosswise of grain. On the straight of grain, the puckering was consistently intolerable and impossible to press out. For someone just beginning to make entredeux, I suggest linen scraps. I would also suggest that you start with a bit of light weight stabilizer until you get a feel for the stitch. Then move on to stitching it without the stabilizer. You probably will see no difference except that there is no stabilizer to remove. Apparently, you have successfully made entredeux already, so you might want to move on to pivoting, a topic which I neglected to include. Maybe later…… Thanks for plowing through the entire tutorial. It’s hard to make how-to posts entertaining or interesting.

  4. Janice, as always, I am fascinated by your exquisite creations and knowlege. Thank you for all the time you put into creating heirlooms and tutorials. I so enjoy coming here to visit.

  5. Diana, how kind of you to leave such a sweet comment! I’m so glad you enjoy the projects and tutorials.

  6. Janice,

    This is a good post. I have the book you mentioned, “Fine Machine Sewing,” by Carol Ahles. I love that book, but it is great to read your notes from your experience!

  7. Odette Romero

    Hi Mrs. Janice can I order the Baby Layette pattern?

  8. Thanks you for your help. I just bought the Quattro 2 and unfortunately the people at the store don’t seem to know much about the machine.. I will be referring to your site regularly.
    Thanks,
    Mickey

  9. Lucky, lucky you! I am so happy for you and happy for all the creative joy this machine will give you! I’ll be happy to offer any help I can. Do you know about the yahoogroup, Brother-Quattro-Babylock-Ellisimo? You would get a lot of information and help 24/7 from that group. I have learned so much by reading the posts. I hope to hear more from you, Mickey, and about your projects. Thanks for writing.

  10. Marilyn Jones

    I have Singer Quantum 9960 and I am having trouble figuring out which stitch to use to make the entredeux. Can you possibly be of help? I probably should just buy the commercially made, but a part of me would like to give it a it a try.
    Thank you for any help and by the way, your tutorial is wonderful!
    Marilyn

  11. Marilyn, I wish I could help you, but I am not familiar with the stitches on your Singer. I suggest that you study the stitch diagram from Carol Ahles book. They are included in this post. Do study it and get set up with starched fabric, fine thread and a wing needle. Once you find the correct # and make width and length adjustments, you will find it is very satisfying to make your own.

  12. Lovely explanations, I’d dearly love to do entre~deux, have a Frister machine with the right stitches and the wing needles, but I can’t find a presser foot to keep the two edges perfectly aligned for stitching. I have seen specialised Viking and Bernina feet (at ridiculous prices!!), but have only been able to achieve a compromise by basting the two edges to a length of stabiliser before sewing, which is very long~winded and time~consuming ~ have you any other suggestions?

  13. Poshepoche, I’m afraid I was not very clear in this tutorial. I don’t understand your problem when you say, “I can’t find a presser foot to keep the two edges perfectly aligned for stitching.” What two edges are you trying to keep aligned? I make entredeux on a single layer of stached, flat fabric, usually linen or cotton. Feel free to write to me privately at NCcabin@aol.com. Making entredeux is such a useful skill. I’d really like to help you conquer this.

  14. What a show of expertise! I’m printing this blog and marking it for future reference! Thank You so much for an in-depth look at entredeux, which by far eclipses all others I have ever seen!

  15. Prissy, aren’t you kind to write! Thanks for the kind words. I hope you make miles and miles of gorgeous entredeux.

  16. Avis figueroa

    Thank you for the tutorials. I’m taking heirloom sewing clases in PR., and your page is helping a lot. Keep posting your wonderful work.

  17. Thank YOU, Avis, for your kind comment. Congratulations on studying heirloom sewing in classes there in Puerto Rico. I’m sure you will love it as much as I do. I have such fond memories of my time in Puerto Rico and wish I had met you there.

  18. What size of pearl cotton do you recommend for the cording used to make the entredeux?

  19. BB, I have always used #8 perle cotton. But Carol Ahles, THE expert on such matters, says you can use sizes 5, 8, or 12, whichever generates the look you like. Do you have a preference?

  20. Jeanne Marie

    Great tutorial! Thanks tons.

  21. Jeanne Marie, I’m glad you found it helpful. Thanks for writing.

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