Author Archives: Janice

Pinstitch~~What’s it all about?

pin stitched Madeira pillowcase hem

Just a few days ago, Lindsay wrote, “ Would you post or share you technique for pin stitching. Needles, setting, fabric and lace prep, thread, machine, etc.?”  So this post is dedicated to Lindsay and her inquiring mind.~~~~~

Some time ago, I promised a tutorial post on pin stitch and now it’s time to address this question.  In my humble opinion, few machine-made embellishments for classic clothing have as much aesthetic impact as the most common hemstitches, pin stitch and entredeux.  So, for those of us who love to create such garments, it is important to know about these two machine made hem stitches.

Since this is a very broad topic, this post will deal only with pin stitch.  As a matter of fact, it will take two posts for pin stitch. Some time later, I will talk about entredeux.

Also known as point de paris  and Parisian hem stitch, is a stitch made by both hand and machine.  This discussion deals only with machine made hem stitches.

 

First let me give you a brief overview of this stitch.  Much of this information is taken from Carol Ahles’ excellent reference book, Fine Machine Sewing.

DESCRIPTION: Pin stitch is described by Carol as a stitch pattern that resembles the letter “L”  (or when mirror imaged, a reversed “L”) repeating the vertical stitches and on some machines, the horizontal stitches.

It looks like this in the machine stitch menu.  On several machines I have used, this requires 8 stitches for each hole, which appears at the left end of the horizontal stitch.  A good starting point for settings is W. 2.5 and L. 2.5.  Don’t be tricked into using a stitch that has two horizontal stitches.  Those are usually for applique’ and will not give the same look as a genuine pin stitch. Continue reading

Easter Dresses by Judy Day

Judy gardens as beautifully as she sews. Just look at this spring scene in her back yard!

Judy Day has continued her tradition of gorgeous Easter dresses and hairbows for both of her granddaughters and their dolls.  These are very different from the heirloom confections she has always made.   But as we all know, as little girls grow a little older, they like contemporary garments. 

Here is Judy’s tale of how  these dresses came about.

This idea for this year’s Easter dresses for my DGDs actually started last summer when I was asked to make a store sample for B Sew Inn (BabyLock dealer)in Springfield, MO.  I fell in love with the dress from the picture on the front of the book, “Rosie and Me“  by Michelle Griffith.

Continue reading

Antique Lace Galloons

Sometimes, it seems that all my posts overlap.  This is one of those times.

When I blogged about the shadow smocked Easter dress for my granddaughter, I mentioned that I would tell you about the lace I used.  And I will.

As I was gathering my thoughts, it occurred to me that the most interesting thing about the lace is the use of the galloon as insertion.  So I want to tell you about that and other galloons I have used for both insertion and edging.

French Val galloon, with two decorative edges, 1-3/4" wide

The antique lace I used for my granddaughter’s Easter dress was purchased at a real once-in-a-lifetime estate sale where I still sometimes shop when I am in Dreamland.  The creamy French Val lace is a beautiful ivory color, achieved by age rather than dye. Two  bolts of a classic pattern available yet today came home with me.

French Val edging, 1-1/4" wide

I found the intricacy of  the pattern in combination with the gentle color to be very pleasing.  But I needed insertion for the skirt.

If you look carefully at the scalloped edges on the galloon, you will see how easily it converted to an insertion.  Without the perfectly straight lines of traditional insertion, the galloon requires a little more care when it is stitched to the flat skirt fabric.  But it certainly passed.   The soft curve of the scallops make this do-able. More dramatically curved edges would have been a major challenge.

galoon used as insertion

I’ve used galoons in other garments.

Continue reading

Embroidered Antique Buttons

I was so pleased with the finished look of the buttons on my granddaughter’s shadow smocked Easter dress.  It was a stroke of luck that they surfaced  as I pillaged through my bag of pearl buttons.  I had forgotten all about them.

Purchased many years ago at an antique mall with an extensive needlework/notions booth, I had no plan for these interesting buttons.  There is no shank, just threads wrapped from side to side, as if the fibers were stitched over a ring.  But the ivory color seemed to work for this dress with the ivory lace, entredeux and featherstitching. Continue reading

Shadow Smocking How-to

My granddaughter’s shadow smocked Easter dress was inspired by Kay Guiles’ article in Sew Beautiful, Easter, 1998.  In fact, the dress is nearly identical to one of the sample garments shown in that article.  I take no credit whatsoever for the design or technique.

The only changes made to Laurel’s dress are the addition of lace insertion in the skirt and the substitution of a different embroidery design that included both silk ribbon and DMC floss.

Shadow smocking is a very unique technique and not at all difficult.  But I learned a lot that I would like to share with anyone considering such a project. Continue reading

Easter ’12

Robert and Laurel after our at-home egg hunt. Somehow, her white shoes were left at home so we had to make do with the black ones that were left at Nana's house.

Easter is such a joyful holiday, and our family celebration reflected that joy. All were gathered here except for our hard working pilot son who was somewhere in the sky.  Lots of activities, lots of fun, and lots of sewing projects added more joy to this special week.   Easter Sunday, of course, was the highlight.

Robert was debonair in his first grown-up, store-bought Easter duds while Laurel was radiant in what might be her last smocked Easter dress.  The shadow smocked confection was a joy to stitch.

Alastair with his eggs

Alastair was his usual adorable self wearing a shirt he loved.  The applique’ featured an engine pulling a train car with a huge Easter egg.  I had selected this design because he loves trains.  That won his heart. Continue reading

Easter Sewing~Finished!!!

Happy Easter!!

I am soooo pleased to be done with my granddaughter’s Easter dress.   I learned a LOT about shadow smocking and have some tips to share with those of you who might like to try it.

Right now, there is still too much to do for me to take the time to give you the details, but I will later. Our children and grandchildren have begun to arrive so we are savoring the time with them.

Meanwhile, I just finished making 50 cream cheese and jelly sandwiches (on raisin bread) for the Bunny Lunch at church tomorrow.  New shorts outfits for the boys are done. But since I spent so much time on Laurel’s dress, she is wearing the ladybug dress from last year. Continue reading

“T’was the night before Easter…”

I’m doing my absolute best to finish up my Easter sewing, but it seems that one thing and then another keep getting in the way of progress.  Still I plug along, hoping and expecting that everything will get  done, because I’ve done it before.

I keep reminding myself of  the Easter my Rebecca was 6, 28 years ago.  For whatever reason, I decided to abandon an almost finished smocked dress in favor of this peach Swiss batiste frock.  From where the inspiration came, I don’t recall.  But I HAD to make it!

That was Maundy Thursday.  I had three days, mostly filled with the activities of this 6 year old child and her 10 year old brother, not to mention preparing my Sunday school lesson, fixing dinner, etc.  I slept very little from then until Easter, but I did complete the dress.  If I did it then, I can do it again, right?  I am 28 years older, but I don’t have a 6 and 10 yo under foot.  Yes, surely I can do it!

The fabric is what Jeannie B. calls “fairy” batiste–sheer and fine enough to clothe fairies who could not bear the weight of linen or even Nelona.  The major features of the dress are entredeux beading, tatting, puffing–lots of that!–a sweet Swiss handloom.

The sleeves are set in with entredeux, one of my favorite heirloom touches. Continue reading

The Marketplace

Our church’s annual Palm Sunday re-enactment of the Triumphal Entry of Jesus into the marketplace of Jerusalem seemed reason enough, I thought, for my grandchildren to be especially well dressed.

The lame boy at the entry begged "Alms for the poor!" Since the food was provided free of charge, his free will collection helped defray some of the expense.

Laurel was to wear an heirloom dress, last year’s Easter frock.  Robert would be decked out in dress pants, a matching vest and his signature church accessory, a tie.   Quite the young clothes horse, he even insists on wearing one to the monthly pizza night.  Laurel carried her doll Kit and a handkerchief purse (scroll down the post) to carry her shekels.

heavily embroidered Swiss handkerchief

One year ago, when the dress was finished, it turned out to be too short for the 6 year old.  So a lace flounce was added to the slip for more length.

It was no surprise that now, a year later, the dress was once again too short.  So Saturday night, after a busy day, when the grandchildren were finally bedded down, I dug out the two cards of lace edging and insertion.  Two more rows of lace were added to the slip. Continue reading

The Doctor and His Stitches

This post is just a story, but a true one.  I have no techniques or photos to show you, except the pattern front below.  But perhaps there is some inspiration.

This whole chain of events is one of my favorite needlework stories.

Many, many years ago, there was a thriving knit shop in our little town.  As a customer, I had developed a friendship with the owner, Pat, who was aware that I taught smocking and other needlework classes.

One spring Saturday afternoon, Pat called to ask if I could pleat some fabric for a customer who had just walked into her shop requesting that service.  The “customer” was actually an older couple who had come to town from their home some 20 miles away, deep in the central Florida countryside.  They were hoping to get the pleating done today.  “Of course,” I said.

Dr. Jones and his wife arrived at my home a little later. After introducing himself (a retired surgeon) and explaining that his wife had recently become deaf, he presented me with a bag of  batiste and this pattern, with which I was very familiar.

The $3.50 price on this pattern tell you it is pretty old!

I knew full well that this was a pretty ambitious project.  My friend Mary had made this dress a year or so before then, but she had come to a standstill because she couldn’t get the hang of bullion roses.  So we did a work swap.  She smocked a dress for my daughter and I embroidered the 88 bullion roses as specified on the pattern.

But back to Dr. and Mrs. Jones and the pleating. He explained that this was to be the wedding dress for their son’s bride.

The pattern pieces were all cut, including the armhole curve, so I quickly stitched scrap fabric to the curve so the fabric would enter the pleater uniformly.

As I bagged up the pleated fabric and pattern, Dr. Jones asked if, perchance, I had a book on smocking he could buy because  “My wife doesn’t know how to smock.”

Oh boy.  This wedding dress was in big trouble. So he was sold one of my many how-to smock books and encouraged to come up with a back up plan, like a ready-to-wear dress.

“Oh, we have plenty of time,” he said.  “The wedding isn’t for 3 weeks.”  He was so confident! Continue reading