Category Archives: girls

Lemon Meringue Pie

zLemonMeringuewslip

 

Frothy and yellow and sweet, this dress reminds me of lemon meringue pie, which, incidentally, is on my Easter dinner menu.  Laurel will look like dessert!

I know that too many pictures of this garment have already been posted.  From gathering supplies, to slip construction,  and even the complications, it has been posted and discussed endlessly. And yet, seeing it complete with the yellow underdress and the added rows of lace at the hemline, I feel compelled to show the overall effect.

 

zLemonMeringueslipyoke

 

From the planning stage, my vision of this frock presented a white dress with yellow shadowing through the sheer batiste.  The yellow shadow beneath the lace was an unexpected and pleasant surprise.  Continue reading

Easter Dress 2010 Done!

Finally, Laurel’s Easter dress is done.  It turned out shorter than I had planned so I have added a few rows of lace to the slip hem –or “tail” as Elizabeth Travis Johnson always called it–to add a little more length.  By the time I finished it, the lighting wasn’t good so I will post a picture tomorrow of the dress and slip together.

Generally, I am pleased with the dress.  Now that it’s done, I wish I had dropped the yoke to the bottom of the armscye.  On the other hand, this will twirl better and every little girl loves to twirl.

Using Swiss organdy for the sleeves was a must, as the finella batiste has no  body whatsoever.  Even with starch, there would have been no pouf to the sleeve. Continue reading

Day Grandchildren’s Easter Duds

 

Update:  In discussion with Judy, I was reminded that Jackson’s shorts were actually made from a man’s shirt.  After searching high and low for fabric to coordinate with the mint green dresses, Judy finally found a very pricey shirt that would do.  She whacked that shirt up for shorts which had to be lined, due to the light weight of the shirting.

I’ve always said that heirloom sewing is very expensive, either in terms of time or money.  Judy paid both ways for these beautifully coordinated Easter outfits!  She says she just did what a grandmother had to do.************************

A few years ago, Judy Day made these three beautiful, coordinated outfits for her grandchildren.  The girl cousins are the same age and Big Brother Jackson is the oldest of the three.

The mint Imperial batiste bishop dresses seem to project the essence of Spring. Ribbons woven through the smocking add shimmer, making the dresses even more classically elegant.  Tucks add another special detail to the skirts.

The sleeves are trimmed with tatting made by Judy’s grandmother–that would be the girls’ great-great grandmother.  What a special treasure for these girls!  Continue reading

Easter Dress 2010~More Progress

skirt fancyband

Laurel’s heirloom sewn Easter yoke dress is coming along.  She and her brother. Robert, spent  last night with us and what with all the activity, baths and preparations for today’s homeschool lessons, not much got done on the dress until this evening. 

unfinished butterfly sleeve

The butterfly sleeves are well underway.  I finished the skirt fancyband and plan to use a portion of that for the lace ruffle below the beading.  But time ran out before I could get the sleeves finished.  The skirts are 45″ front and back, so it takes 2 1/2 yds. of each piece of the 5 pieces of lace in the fancyband.  It takes a good while to starch and iron 13 yards of lace, not to mention the time to stitch them together.  Continue reading

Progress~2010 Easter Dress Yoke

It seems nearly impossible to get a nice flat scan of anything dimensional. This yoke not all rippley.

Progress is slow on this dress and I am really getting worried about finishing the grandchildren’s outfits before Easter weekend.  I have made every mistake possible and spent more time picking out stitches than putting them in. 

This ultra sheer batiste absolutely requires stabilizer behind all hemstitching.  And yet if I remember to put the stabilizer in place, I have forgotten to insert the wing or #120 needle.

In my humble opinion, the inclusion of hemstitching wherever possible always elevates the heirloom status of a garment.  On a whim, I decided to use yellow Madeira Cotona for the entredeux at the shoulders and pinstitch on either side of the insertion.    I hope I don’t regret it when the garment is all assembled.  Will it disappear or conflict with the yellow slip?  Continue reading

Easter Slip 2010

The underdress/slip for Laurel’s Easter dress is finished,  except  for sewing on the buttons.  After cutting out a size 6 and realizing that it was too large, I altered it considerably.  But it still looks huge to me. It may require a tuck under the arm at the side seam.

I decided against using the fagoted lace edging on the slip.  The sleeves will be butterfly style, open down the center with lace on either edge.  With that peekabook feature, the slip might make the sleeve look cluttered. So I’ve used a simple scalloped lace edging. Continue reading

Laurel’s Easter Dress ’10–Gathering Supplies

“To become a grandparent is to enjoy one of the few pleasures in life for which the consequences have already been paid. “  Robert Brault

And so it is with the pre-paid pleasure of sewing these Easter garments.  I am determined to use the fabrics, patterns and trims that I already have and not buy more.  All the materials for Laurel’s Easter dress have been extracted from the armoire, dresser drawers and lace boxes,  ready to be cut and sewn.

I am so excited about sewing  this garment. In Martha Pullen’s 1985 book, French Hand Sewing by Machine, the Second Book, there is a photo of a white basic yoke dress with a blue slip showing through. It has intrigued me from the moment I saw it.

Ever since then, I have wanted to make such a dress. I don’t know why I never did, but at last it has made its way to the top of my To Do list.  A few items down on that same running list is a notation to make a green slip/sundress after Easter.

Because I’m trying to coordinate the three grandchildren’s outfits, yellow ducks will be the tie that binds them.  Alastair’s middle name is Drake, so the duck theme was selected especially for him. The handloom shown above and in the previous post showing Alastair’s bubble seems to dictate that white or yellow be used for the body of the garments and all three children look very nice in yellow.   So Laurel’s underdress/slip will be yellow Imperial broadcloth. I might rather have used batiste, but I had plenty of broadcloth and no batiste on hand. I’m justifying this compromise by recognizing that Laurel is almost 6 and a broadcloth “slip” could also pass as a sundress. I’m also trying very hard to use fabric that I already have.

The Swiss batiste is the very sheerest, known by the names of Swiss muslin and Swiss finella. I want to use this so the pale yellow slip will shadow through as much as possible.

The other components are Swiss fagoting used for beading, a fancy entredeux to dress up the fagoting on the sleeves, yellow ribbon, the beautiful fagoted lace galoon and French “footing” lace, which is just a simple lace ground, without a pattern.  I chose the footing because I don’t want a decorative insertion to compete with the fagoted lace.

Sarah Howard Stone’s Basic Yoke Dress pattern will be used. This is a fabulous pattern and an incredible bargain, priced at $10-11. The pattern includes the slip and several lovely, classic embroidered and heirloom sewn collars. It is wonderful for smocked yoke dresses.

 When I began sewing for my daughter, I bought this pattern in each size and have never regretted it.  It was so reassuring to know that when she outgrew one size, the next would fit just fine.  When switching from one pattern to another, you can never be sure how comparable their sizes are.

The slip is well underway.  The yoke is lined, using a technique that I’ve always liked.  By placing the pattern piece for the back seam line on a fold, you create a nicely folded back edge, without the bulk of a seam.  Cut two backs in this manner and cut two front yokes as per the pattern.  By laying out these four pieces as shown in the diagram, seaming the shoulders and then creasing on the back fold lines, you have a fully lined, seam enclosed bodice.

It’s a good thing I started with the slip.  While Laurel was here with her family, I tried the slip bodice on her.  She is wearing a size 6 now in all ready-to-wear, so that’s what I cut out.  It is very big on her.  Fortunately, I can cut the shoulder deeper and take up the added armscye circumference in the underarm side seam.  But I will use the size 5 pattern for her dress.  I’m happy to be making pattern adjustments on broadcloth that ultra-sheer Swiss batiste.

Back to the sewing room……..Is anyone else sewing for Easter?  Inquiring minds want to know!

Smocking Green–Recycling

Laurel fortifying herself before her expedition to pick flowers in the garden.

It seemed to me that an article on green would be appropriate for St.Patrick’s Day.  But this has nothing to do with Luck o’ the Irish, Leprechauns or cabbage and corned beef.   However, in some ways the topic is like the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

Those of us who sew and smock classic children’s clothing were green long before it was the color of a movement. I remember Kermit the Frog singing “It’s Not Easy being Green.”   But for us, it’s the easiest thing we can do.

This bishop dress was made 25 years ago for my daughter and worn long enough that the hem had to be let down for her. It still looks pretty good now that Laurel wears it. The pattern is timeless, the microcheck fabric and the Swiss edging are very good quality and the smocking looks like it will hold up for yet another generation.  The environmentalist mantra “Reduce~Re-use~Recycle” could have been composed by women of our ilk. Continue reading

Lace Tape Wedding Ring Dress

After the Everything-Wrong Birthday Suit post, writing about this dress is very soothing. It does not give me an absolute sigh of satisfaction, but I am pretty pleased with it.

There is a lot to love about the dress: Chery Williams Wedding Ring Dress pattern, Capitol Imports champagne Swiss batiste, champagne Swiss beading, peach lace tape, miles of hemstitching, both pinstitch and entredeux, and a nylon French lace which requires almost no ironing. There will be more about the lace later. Continue reading

Bee Happy

 

I saw a bee today. After what must be one of central Florida’s coldest winters ever, it’s finally warming up. I doubt this is the end of the nasty low temps, but at least now that I’ve seen a bee, I can believe that spring WILL come. I’m buzzily planning Easter outfits for my grandchildren and wish I could buzz as fast as the bees.

A moment of contemplation…..

Today’s honeymaker sighting reminded me of this little Bee Happy outfit I made for my granddaughter, Laurel. The bright colors, breezy style, bee theme and sun hat reminded me of fun, easy summer sewing and I am surely looking forward to some of that.

A moment later….

The sunsuit is made of cool, cotton pique’, trimmed with black baby rick rack. The yellow gingham used for the Madeira applique’  hemline (not in the pattern) was repeated in the hat and bubble pants.

The pattern is Ducky Daisy Sunsuit from Wendy Schoen’s book, Creating Heirlooms for Baby. The pattern centerfold includes the sunsuit top, bubble pants and sun hat. It’s one of those fabulous basic patterns that can be embellished countless ways. Can you tell that I love it?

Continue reading