This ready-to-smock frock was smocked and dressed up for Laurel’s 5th birthday. She loves rainbows and unicorns, like all 5 year olds, so this garment really tickled her pink.
I combined Ellen McCarn’s Unicorn plate and an old Martha Pullen rainbow plate. With the advantage of a completely constructed and pleated dress, the smocking went very quickly.
After smocking, the first challenge was to hand embroider the collar without any stitches or knots showing on the underside. To accomplish this, I employed the same quilter’s knot technique used on Alastair’s bubble (see that post).
Next, I wanted to add Swiss trim to the collar, sleeves and sash. To avoid unacceptable overlap of trim at center front, I first measured out the amount of trim needed to gather around each collar (a ratio of one to one and one half  is my personal preference). Then I tapered each end to a point.
Over white quilting thread, I rolled and whipped, using my beloved Madeira Cotona 80 wt. thread. After the trim was pulled up to the appropriate length, it was hand whipped just below the piping.
Adding Swiss trim to the sleeves had to be done before smocking, as in regular construction.
- First, the trim sleeve edge was measured and entredeux cut to that measurement plus 1″.
- Secondly, the Swiss trim was rolled and gathered, as on the collar, and joined to the entredeux.
- Next, I removed the shirttail hem, pressed the hem fabric flat and then joined the raw edge of the entredeux to the raw edge of the sleeve, using standard heirloom technique.
Unicorn Dress Back
Entredeux/Swiss trim was added to the tail of the sash in the same manner as the sleeves.
Finally, I dealt with the back yoke. Legendary sewing diva Elizabeth Travis Johnson always advocated putting something attractive on the back of garments, either children’s or adults. She always wore a brooch or some small decoration on the back of her clothes for church. She thought it broke up the tedium of all those plain backs the in pews.
The “utility” quality buttons on the ready made dress were replaced with mother of pearl. These bright rose buttons were purchased at an antique shop, many of which have vintage sewing equipment and notions. Every time I find colored pearl buttons, I snatch them up. Finding them in shops or on-line is difficult.
Then, hand embroidery to match the collar was stitched between the buttonholes. The hem was turned up. Done. And in a fraction of the time it would have taken to construct the yoke dress  from scratch.
What’s not to love about ready-to-smock garments?
